We were longingly peering at the weather forecast looking for two, just two days of tolerable weather for fast paced sailing. Suddenly, these two days appeared between a hurricane-strength bora and a strong jugo and needed to be taken advantage of. We headed to Kaprije. Bura behaved according to the forecasts and from Tribunj to Kaprije the winter delights on the sea made all of life’s commitments seem like silly trifles for a moment .
We sailed around the northwestern point of Kaprije, which bears the name of the island, and found ourselves in Kakan channel, closer to the coast of Kaprije, in good leeward from bura. We passed the Remetić bay, now without ships, but during the summer likely crowded with sailors, which makes a free berth difficult to find. As we watched the green landscape intersect with stone walls (stone fences), where widely known babić and maraština once grew, but which is now overgrown with underbrush and pine woods, we have not even noticed that the sea suddenly became “crowded”. At the same time the Pelješčanka ferry and the Vis catamaran appeared on the narrow southeastern entrance to the Kakan channel. An uncommon jam in front of the pier. But the pier wasn’t crowded! We used to call this type of ferry šešula, because of its shape and weak maritime skills. Although faster, the catamaran waited for ferry passengers to disembark and then docked along the pier.
We were greeted at the berth by Čedo Jelovčić, otherwise responsible for the berths in Kaprije. The berths are governed by the County Port Authority of Šibenik, but all jobs regarding reception of yachts and fees are administered by the local sport fishing association. The port of Kaprije is a deep bay open only to the northwest, so wind from that direction makes the biggest problems in the port. The bottom is sandy, so the anchor holds well. We firmly secured two moorings on the bow, and just as firmly tied the boat to the pier, all in anticipation of the strengthening of the bura announced by the forecast. Only then we could we observe, quietly and slowly, the village of Kaprije. One might guess that its historical starting point was up the hill, from where it slowly spread to the east and the west, descending towards the sea, leaving it exposed to the jugo and the sun, which we really enjoyed in this winter time. Directly on the waterfront is cafe Lola, and we were pleasantly surprised that it was open at the time. Near the cafe there is a shop that is just next to an ATM. The locals say that this is the only ATM on Šibenik Islands, making it a “magnet” for tourists and especially sailors.
Čedo just said at one point: Come on, people, they are waiting for us! The three of us looked at each other, shrugged, and obediently made the thirty paces across the waterfront toward the building, which has a cafe on the ground floor and the premises of the “Gaun” sport fishing club on the first floor. Our welcome was truly impressive!