Fisherman's Menu

Fishermen’s Stew (Brujetić) with Sardines have achieved cult status and are praised to the skies. Thousands of pages have been written in praise of Adriatic grouper, dentex, sea bream, sea bass and John Dory, which you will find freshly caught, succulent and expensive in nearly every island tavern or restaurant. If you decide to enjoy them in a brujet (fishermen’s stew) or grilled, you will not regret it. However, do not forget everything that you can prepare for yourself, at ten or even twenty times lower cost. If you opt for sardines, we offer you two traditional
fishermen’s recipes.
Sardines are rightly called the “providers for the coastal population” because through hard and less hard times, they have been a major source of nourishment. Sardines are prepared in many ingenious ways, which is understandable because it was necessary to break the monotony. Numerous dishes in which sardines are the main or, in the majority of cases, the only ingredient have achieved cult status and are praised to the skies. It is said that many expensive delicacies that the upper class had on their tables could not compare to this little, insignificant-looking but plentiful fish. Some people insist that they have never tasted anything better.
One of the dishes where sardines are the main ingredient, and even today arouses general enthusiasm, is brujet, fishermen’s stew! Fishermen’s mothers or none (grandmothers) used to cook brujet from sardines. Wives were also permitted to do so but only after they had acquired the necessary experience, especially if they came from non-fishing families. If it happened that there was too much olive oil in the dish or if the onions were undercooked and gave the family indigestion, you can be sure that blame was heaped on the brujet and the cook. Unlike brujet for festive occasions, which we’ll talk about some other time, this brujet is usually referred to in the diminutive, brujetić, indicating that it is not particularly caloric and requires a side dish, usually polenta. Nevertheless, when brujetić is prepared now in the summer, polenta may be a little too heavy and it could be preferable to offer boiled chard, zucchini or other seasonal greens.

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Fisherman's Menu

For the youngest in the house, the ones that will complain during dinner, organize a competition of collecting the most “buttons” from a meal on their plate. The favourite summer dinner of fishermen used to be boiled skate! It was at a time when the nets and longlines rose from the depths of the sea with the help of muscles alone, relying only on hands, and the winch was introduced only later, as a rescue. A fisherman’s day began early, at the crack of dawn, when he went to boot the nets, then sort the fish, deliver it to the customer, and finally clean and prepare the nets for the next fishing. Meanwhile, depending on the physical and spiritual condition of the fishing troupe, and weather conditions, long lines would be attached and thrown into the sea, in order to catch something more. Of course, the tendency was to catch better, high-quality fish, such as common dentex, or red porgy. Red scorpionfish, weever, black seabream and piper gurnard would also be welcomed. But wishes were one thing, and reality another. Wildlife would often be caught on the longline, marine wildlife of course, a term which describes a wild variety of fish whose skeleton is made of cartilage. The best known ones are the various species of sharks and dogfish, which fishermen did not consider to be sharks. A long time ago, and even then very rarely, a monkfish, which was a good catch, was known to be caught, but they would more often catch an eagleray, which was not in the least appreciated. Among all this wildlife there were several kinds of skate, but the most appreciated one was the thornback ray or simply skate with “buttons”. The fishermen were pleased when they caught it. It was prey that ended up on the table, a plate in front of the fisherman’s hungry mouth.

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Fishing

It started long ago, but only few know that the first competitive dive in underwater fishing was made back in 1956, so we can rightfully consider it an old sport. Even older when we accredit it with all the active years without sporting or competitive ambitions,which date back to the time before World War II. Shortly after the appearance of underwater fishing on the shores of the Mediterranean, people also started to dive and fish underwater in the Adriatic. The same thing started to happen in the waters of Dubrovnik, Hvar, Sušak, and the island of Lošinj, almost at the same time and unrelated to each other. In various ways individuals purchased spearguns which at that time started to be produced in Italy and France. A massive descent into the underwater world followed in the post-war years. Spearguns were difficult to purchase because they were not produced in Yugoslavia. Sailors who sailed to foreign ports were a great help in that, since they brought spearguns and professional literature. Such gifts from around the world have resulted in hand-made spearguns, the first one in Rijeka in the early fifties. The base for the first sporting competitions was created.

The start followed in 1956. In Mali Losinj! In the city that was proclaimed the world capital of spearfishing many years later. The first competition was the Zone Championship of Northern Adriatic held on July 26, and the winner was Božo Medur from Rijeka. Details of this old competition are not known to us. The papers did not survive, most of the participants, if not all, have since died. The facts show that the first national championship was held in Dubrovnik, a month and a half later – on 15th or 16th September. The Dubrovnik Championship brought together 18 fishermen from Dubrovnik, Rijeka, Mali Lošinj and Zagreb. They were fishing in the waters south of Dubrovnik, beneath the Konavle cliffs, on rough terrain where the depth reaches up to 30 meters. Some successful fishermen from northern Adriatic fished a little bit below the surface, in the “first floor, up to 10 meters deep”. Local fishermen dived and fished deeper, up to 20 meters, which gave them an additional advantage, besides their knowledge of the terrain. This can be seen from the results of the competition which lasted for four hours.
Mato Štakula from Dubrovnik won the championship with a landslide, while the runner-up was Božo Medur. Between the two domestic competitions, in early September, the national team set sail to European Championship in Bastia on Corsica. The team’s result was a sixth place out of seven teams, and Mato Štakula was eighth in the individual competition.

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News from Marinas

Next autumn, after  Biograd Boat Show finishes, work on replacing five piers in the remaining part of the marina will continue so that the 2017 season will be welcomed with brand new piers. Marina Ilirija, which has 800 berths, is one of the largest marinas on the Adriatic. It was built thirty years ago using a system of concrete piers on stilts and then expanded and renovated several times.
The passage of time has left its mark and piers had to be restored. It was estimated that the best solution would be the removal of the existing piers and installation of new, floating ones with an anchoring system, equipped with all the necessary equipment. This method of reconstruction allows better utilization of the marina area and mooring of larger vessels than ever before. Work was entrusted to the Marinetek NCP company from Šibenik and its total value is 2.15 million EUR.
But with marina Kornati being completely full and being, in addition to that, the organizer of numerous regattas that last until early November, the organization of construction work was extremely complex because its execution was not allowed to interfere in any way with regular activities. In addition to that, everything had to be conducted during the most unfavorable time of the year. It was done in a way so that piers were freed one at a time, removed, and then new pontoons with an anchoring system were put in their place, to which yachts were tied immediately after completion. Removing the old piers was done by the BSK Commerce company from Rijeka, specialized in demanding naval construction work, which posesses rich experience, equipment and machinery for the job. The demolition was by carried out by a crane from a floating barge, which was located between other piers, i.e. between  a number of ships at berths.
The pontoons are anchored using a standard system with chains and a new Mediterranean mooring system was installed for the yachts. A fire protection system, a new electricity utility and a water supply network with stainless steel service lockers, produced by a local company Marex elektrostroj, were installed on pontoons. The first phase was carried out using 400 meters of M2700HD pontoons and another 525 meters of M4300HD and M3300HD pontoons will be docked during the fall. These are high-quality pontoons with which Marinetek equips many of our Mediterranean marinas.

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News

The series of booklets Sailing in Croatia, Törns in Kroatien, Crociera nell’ Adriatico croato, La Voile en Croatie, Segling i Kroatien, Plovba na Hrvaškem, Мореплавание в Хорватии and Żeglowanie w Chorwacji – was created with the idea of providing help and offering advice to boaters for enjoyable sailing along the Croatian Adriatic coast, its islands and bays, all the way from Savudrija to Dubrovnik.

When we first started this edition, twenty-one years ago, we received a lot of positive comments from the end users. They were glad to have essential and reliable information about sailing and an insight into the way of life on the Croatian Adriatic. The articles and information in this booklet have been carefully selected and are the result of our editorial team’s many years of experience sailing the Adriatic and engaging in all aspects of nautical journalism. We have tried to supply all the vital information you will need while sailing, as well as offer suggestions about destinations, what to see and what to discover for yourselves.

In Sailing in Croatia, and editions in other languages, we have tried to do two things at the same time: describe the Croatian Adriatic coastline and help you understand the way of life of the inhabitants, while providing you with all the information you need while at sea. So you will find two types of articles in this booklet,  in which the people who feature are just as important as details about safe anchorages, harbours or sailing safety in general.

But let’s begin at the beginning. The first article introduces you to regulations concerning sailing in Croatia, including safety regulations, meteorological information, entering and leaving Croatian territorial waters, taxes, licences, how to hire a boat, berthing and anchoring fees, duties and rights of harbour authorities, radio traffic, harbour etiquette, sailing near beaches, diving and fishing.
To add more interest to your journey, there are some travelogue type articles dedicated to individual areas or islands. Finally, our gourmet team charts the Gourmet Cruise, a special project through which we have been tracking down the best chefs offering traditional food on the Croatian Adriatic for many years. You can discover the favourites of the new season.
In the second part of this publication we have compiled a list of what’s new in marinas and harbours on the Croatian, Slovenian and Montenegrin coasts, where you can find engineers specialising in marine repairs, ship’s electronics specialists and yachting suppliers – the sort of information you may need when you least expect it. We have updated their addresses, phone numbers, email addresses and websites so you can have them all in one place and to hand. For those interested in chartering, there is a complete list of all charter companies operating in Croatia.
We hope this booklet will help you discover the charms, idiosyncrasies and hidden corners of the Croatian coastline.
Normally, the booklet would be found on the exhibition stands of the Croatian Tourist Board at boat shows in various European countries, in marinas on the east coast of the Adriatic and in many charter companies. Now that the world has been faced with the global health crisis caused by the Covid-19 pandemic, none of this is possible.

However, good things are happening and just the thought that we would be sailing soon, makes us feel better.

Over the years we have learnt how much boaters appreciate our publication. In order to continue sharing the story about sailing in Croatia, uninterrupted, we have made small adjustments. Our application has been improved and enhanced so Sailing in Croatia 2021 and other editions are now available for a free download from the App Store and Google Play.

We have also uploaded the Sailing in Croatia Premium Edition with more pages, considerably more content and photo galleries. The Premium Edition is also available in the App Store and Google Play at a minimum cost.

In addition, you can read or just leaf through the publication on our website:www.sailingincroatia.eu.

The print edition will be available in all the usual places before the season starts and is distributed free of charge. However, if you would like to receive one or more copies at your home address, we ask you to cover postage.

News from Marinas

The waterfronts are built, the waters dredged, the stream regulated, poontoons anchored, reception, restaurant and sanitary facilities are structurally complete. The marina is starting to resemble the vision of its designers more and more each day,  looking increasingly like the final version that will greet the first yachtsmen at the start of the nautical season.  ACI Marina Slano will be capable of accommodating 200 vessels between 11 and 25 metres in length, and will offer all the necessary land facilities, such as restaurants, cafes, stores, a swimming pool, sanitary facilities and a parking lot.  This marina is located in the beautiful waters of the South Adriatic, and is in the immediate vicinity of the Elafiti Islands, the Pelješac penninsula and the island of Mljet. All the yachtsmen who sail into the Croatian waters from the Mediterranean will gravitate towards Slano, in addition to boat and yacht owners who will decide to have a permanent berth there. The new marina will unburden the nearby ACI marina in Komolac, where it is frequently impossible to find a free berth during the summer crowds. The two marinas will complement each other, since the yachtsmen from Slano will be able to use the travel lift and dry dock facilities in Komolac during the winter. Furthermore, Slano will be an interesting transit port for all those yachtsmen who sail from Central Dalmatia towards the south, but previously freaquently used to end their cruise either in Korčula or on the northwestern shores of Mljet because of the shortage of berths in the Dubrovnik area. It will also be suitable for one-way charter from Split, already offered by Nautika Centar Nava. ACI already started a strong promotional campaign whose aim is the popularization of the marina and the Dubrovnik area in general, and one of the major promotions was held during the boat fair in Düsseldorf. A great advantage offered to yachtsmen who decide to moor in Slano is that they will get to stay at the marina for the second day for free. This will give them the opportunity to use this pretty harbour as a starting point for a trip to Dubrovnik, but also to use the additional day to visit Ston and Mali Ston, exceptionally interesting, lively and culturally rich, although much less frequented towns.

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News

In addition, the implementation of the Plan will contribute to sustainable financing of the local community and will give the visitors an opportunity to be part of the coexistence of man and nature on Lastovo. The objectives of the Plan are to improve the tourist infrastructure, to contribute to the establishment of efficient waste management and wastewater disposal systems, to increase the visibility of the islands as protected areas and ecotourism destinations, and to improve the programs and facilities offered to tourists.
“Lastovo will make a step forward with its new promotional materials and activities for tourists, ranging from educational trekking and biking trails, a board showing the star constellations on the night sky of Lastovo, a tourist map, promotional videos, Lastovo cookbooks and similar promotional tools, all in accordance with the principles of sustainable tourism.” said Jelena Matoković, an Associate of the Lastovo Islands Nature Park, at the presentation of the Plan.
The inhabitants of Lastovo also invested resources in the local camp, where they installed solar panels, leading to greater efficiency and preservation of energy.
The development of the Sustainable Tourism Plan was led by the Sunce Association from Split, the Lastovo Islands Nature Park and other partners, as a part of the project “Together for nature and the environment”, supported by the SEAMED project and the EU. “The Plan is managed by the Cooperative Council of the Lastovo Islands Nature Park, composed of representatives of the local community. The Council was formed in order to develop the Plan with greater involvement of the local community, which is one of the preconditions for its successful implementation.” said Gabrijela Medunić-Orlić from the Sunce Association.

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News

According to predictions of the global cruise industry association – Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA), the global cruise ship fleet will host around 24 million passengers this year, a million more than in 2015.
Furthermore, 27 new cruise ships will be delivered this year, in addition to the existing 471 ships in the fleet, including river cruise ships. All in all, the increase in the number of passengers on luxury cruise ships is impressive: in 1980 1.4 million passengers sailed on luxury cruises, in 2006 the number of passengers was 15 million, and in 2010 the number increased again to 20 million. According to some research, the number of passengers on luxury cruise ships will reach 30 million by 2020.

Today, this is a huge global corporate enterprise. Despite the fact that the luxury cruise businesses are spread around the world, the market leaders are still mega-companies from North America, such as Royal Caribbean Cruise Line and Disney Cruise Line International, both based in Florida. It is therefore expected that 41% of the world’s cruise ship fleet will be deployed to Caribbean destinations this year. Around 22% of the ships will be deployed in the Mediterranean, only then followed by Mexico and Northern Europe with around 7%, and Asia/Pacific and Alaska with about 6% of the ships.

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News

Of all the tourism sectors, yacht chartering is in the most favourable position, precisely because of the structure and profile of its guests and because of the escalation of terrorism in even the most respectable tourist destinations.
Tourism experts say that the perception of potential travellers changed after the recent terror attacks in Paris, Tunisia, Sharm el-Sheikh and Istanbul, discouraging them from “unnecessary” tourism travel and urging them to stay at home in a safe environment. Those who do decide in favour of travel, recreation and vacationing, and there will always be such people, will usually choose closer destinations and thereby avoid traveling by means of mass transportation, such as railways or airplanes. Average tourists will prefer to travel by their own car to closer destinations, from which they can return home on their own in less than a day, without taking any risks in case of possible security threats.
Doesn’t this sound like a part of the profile of a typical charter guest? Furthermore, average tourists will less frequently visit places of mass gathering because of security reasons. It is clear that the most famous landmarks and large public events are the most vulnerable, and therefore most desirable, terrorist targets. This is why mass gatherings will be avoided, causing a drop in the number of visitors to major tourist destinations and the most renowned sights.
However, these are not things that interest charter guests anyway, and will not deter them from their trip. They usually arrive at their destination with all the necessary provisions and can’t wait to get through check-in and sail away in peace and solitude. Yachtsmen are interested only in sailing, a more or less quiet bay, and possibly a tasty dinner in a good restaurant not oriented toward the average tourist clientele. So, will the number of yachtsmen visiting Croatia increase or decrease this year? Although tourism trends are in general sensitive to extreme political and social behaviours, we believe that the logic of nautical tourism will make the answer to this question be – more guests! This is confirmed by the number of bookings so far this year. The poor security conditions in some Mediterranean destinations, such as Greece and Turkey, which made some companies pull their fleets out of these countries, will contribute to the increase in the number of charter guests in Croatia.

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Ports

What a strange trip! First we travelled from the mainland via the bridge to an island, then by ferry from the island to another island, then across the bridge from that island to another island, and finally by a small speedboat from an island to an island. So where are we now? Can you figure out? Jump after jump, and here we are on Ilovik! However, before that we passed Krk and Cres and left the car at the southernmost tip of Lošinj, in the designated location, in the  Martvaška bay.  A little later we saw one speedboat which embarked from the port in Ilovik and headed toward us. Mladen Pažin was at the helm, wrapped from head to toe in good, warm, clothes. When we saw him in the evening without such thick and comprehensive thermal insulation we barely recognized him. Bura was piercing to the bone, but the goal was getting closer and closer. When we stepped on the waterfront, we found out afterwards that it was called the Stora boardwalk, we thought the cold would loosen, but despite all efforts – nothing!
Even the broad smiles of the host committee, consisting of members of the local self-government board, whom we found charming at first glance, could not drive away the effect of the cold bura, although it was certainly nice to see them. We were greeted by the President of the Board Jadranka Matas and Andrea Simičić, and with them three puppies. When they looked at us, it was clear that our operating temperature needed to be increased. We were immediately led down the street near the church of St. Peter and Paul to the house of the family Jadras, in whose apartment we’ll stay for the night. Mrs. Zvjezdana and Mr. Darko Jadras offered us some hot coffee that we accepted gratefully and literally with both hands. We also had a cake called prisnac, which revealed that Mrs. Zvjezdana originated from Viškovo. We felt more at ease now, and questions and answers came spontaneously. Jadranka and Andrea are members of the local board for the past five years, and we wanted to know what their nightlife is like. They responded laughingly: “Good, exciting even!”
After that, we had to laugh! According to the Polling Station register,  there are about 150 voters in the town, but in reality there are only sixty of them! They have a school, a shop, a post office and a bakery, but no bread is baked there during the winter! At this time of year the souvenir shop, currency exchange, pastry shop and several restaurants are closed. There are eight families with children in the town, most of them with three children. So much for nightlife! The islanders are mainly engaged in fishing, agriculture, cattle breeding and, of course, tourism. They are either apartment owners or restaurant owners, which made the island a famous sailing destination.
We also talked about the diaspora, which is large and financially helps many projects on the island. We learned that the largest diaspora is in New York, and many of them come to their native island as early as March and stay until the end of October. According to some calculations, the number of emigrants is three times larger than the number of residents on their native island. When some soul fades somewhere far away, his or her earthly remains are brought to their home island and buried at Saint Peter’s. Funerals on this island are a special story that we must leave for the next day! Now let’s get to know Ilovik.

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